Risotto-style lemon spaghetti with marinated lake whitefish and Garda capers

A recipe that tastes of home. On Lake Garda, where I live, I have wonderful 0-kilometre local produce: lemons, lake whitefish (coregone or lavarello), capers typical of my village Gargnano and my fantastic extra virgin olive oil. Delicate yet full of flavour, this dish tastes of home and I particularly love it.

INGREDIENTS FOR 2 PEOPLE

180 g SPAGHETTI

2 LEMONS

2 LAKE WHITEFISH FILLETS

20 SALT-PACKED CAPERS

GRATED GRANA PADANO

EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL FROM GARDA

PINK PEPPERCORNS

SALT

PEPPER

A few hours ahead, or the day before, I bring a litre of water to the boil in a small pan and add the yellow peel of a large lemon.

I switch off the heat and leave to infuse.

I desalt the capers, then chop them.

I thinly slice two skinless lake whitefish fillets. The original says I freeze the fillets when eating them partly raw to eliminate possible bacteria.

I cover the fillets with cling film and gently flatten with a meat mallet.

I whisk an emulsion of the juice of a lemon, extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper with a fork.

I put the whitefish pieces in a container, cover with the emulsion and a few pink peppercorns, then leave covered to marinate for an hour.

For the spaghetti, I heat the lemon infusion and put a few ladlefuls in a large pan with the grated zest of half a lemon and a couple of tablespoons of oil. I bring to the boil.

I add the spaghetti to start cooking. Allow a few minutes longer than the stated cooking time. I move them gently to separate them.

I gradually add small amounts of infusion, as for risotto, without overdoing it. I add a little salt because the infusion is unsalted, remembering that the capers will add saltiness.

The spaghetti soon soften and become easy to stir. I cook them through; the released starch makes them creamy. I grate in the zest of another half a lemon.

Off the heat, I add the grated cheese and a little more infusion if needed: the spaghetti should stay loose. Taste and adjust salt if necessary.

I arrange some whitefish slices, drained of marinade, on the bottom of the plate.

I add the spaghetti and finish with the remaining fish, desalted chopped capers, a little grated lemon zest and a drizzle of oil. The fish has two textures: underneath, contact with the spaghetti makes it firmer, while the top layer remains more delicate.